Making the 1953 Sundress

I made this dress from two prints based on pomegranates from my custom fabric collection. I used cotton sateen in my "pomegranate pods" print for the body of the dress and "pomegranate flowers" for the contrast. I used contrast on the front facing, pocket lining, buttonhole and buttons. This is a great fabric which sews up nicely. I widened the skirt panels to quarter circles so that the print would match at the front and back seams. They matched perfectly!

The collar on the dress has an interesting construction technique and I needed to lay the pieces out a couple of times until I understood it. You complete both front pieces, and then whip stitch them together at the center back seam line. I also whip stitched the entire seam so that it was easier to sew together. Then you can complete the facing and stitch the back to the back of the collar.  It's actually pretty cool. I used an invisible zipper as usual and took it all the way up to the armhole. The original pattern calls for a zipper placket that starts about 2" below the armhole, but there is no reason for this so I omitted it. I also added a waistline stay. Unfortunately, I didn't have enough fabric and so the skirt was cut shorter than I would like. I created a wide bias band which I sewed to the bottom of the skirt and used as a hem.

I didn't like the look of the stand-up pockets, so I lined them with the contrast fabric, did not interface, and secured with a covered button. I also made a double sided belt. Since I made the skirt a little wider, this dress works well with a petticoat.